SUMMER OF 1975   
-2May 24past & futureNashville ⇒ likely left nashville on this dayslept on busfull moon in DC24
-1May 25Falstaff & CassiusManhattando not know how I got to NYC... bus?stayed at Jack Williams place in the lower east sidestuffed plane ticket in backpack frame25
0May 26museumsJFK International ⇒ Reykjavik, Iceland ⇒ JFK airport in evening, Reykjavik, Icelandslept on plane over Ireland to LuxembourgMetropolitan Museum, maybe MOMA and Guggenheim26
1May 27culture shock ⇒ Luxembourg ⇒ Parislanded in morning in Luxembourg... train to FranceParis: Kate T. & her two apartment matesmisty in Luxembourg... walked down hill to train.27
2May 28cultural bumpkinParisParis6 Place Denfert-Rochereauculture shock shopping awkwardly in a French outdoor market. 28
3May 29museums & eternityParisLouvre, subways, street markets6 Place Denfert-RochereauLouvre sans pyramid.29
4May 30impressions of impressionistsParisMontmartre Moreau Tower6 Place Denfert-RochereauMontmartre & Moreau paintings... Eiffel Tower30
5May 31history is where we areParisPlace Denfert-Rochereau6 Place Denfert-RochereauLion of Belfort31
6June 1light & worship & aweParis ⇒ Versailles ⇒ Chartres ⇒ ToursVersailles, Chartres, ride to Tours from Catherine BoyerCatherine Boyer & Marie-Helene Robert, 3 Allee le Titie, Toursride between Versailles and Chartres from fellow who spoke English1
7June 2hiways & mapsBordeaux ⇒ San Sebastian, Spain ⇒ VitoriaPortuguese medical student drove me to Lisbon down hiway 3Vitoria Spainlittle car. probably a Fiat? backed off road. pushed it back out of ditch.2
8June 3hiways & helpSpain ⇒ Lisboaentered PortugalLisboa camp sitecamp ground hard, but flat.. no grass.3
9June 4Jesus & night trainPortugal ⇒ Valencia de Alcantara, Spainwrote card to Mouse... took train to SpainValencia de Alcantara: woke up in a cow pasture- moopulled the emergency cord to stop at border. conductor complained.4
10June 5every place has history & warCacerasfellow in red sportscar convertible drove me to CaceresCaceras: slept in train station?driver said he would take me to Madrid. Hah! never seen again5
11June 6fear & Heidegger's big blob of BeingMadrid12 hours in sun standing next to a girl's school- no rideMadrid in a little room in someone's apartmentgave up and took train to Madrid6
12June 7old new spaces & cultural absolutesMadrid ⇒ Zaragoza ⇒ BarcelonaPrado, Bosch paintingsslept on train to Barcelonapassengers tried to teach me Spanish quickly7
13June 8Gaudi & AWEBarcelona ⇒ Perpignan, France ⇒ Narbonne ⇒ Arles ⇒ MarseilleBarcelona, Gaudi Park Guelle, Cathedral, VU studentsslept on train to Francecoincidentally met VU students in a café8
14June 9Mediterranean heat - vagabond v. richMarseille ⇒ Hyerestrain to Marseillehitched from Marseille to Hyeresheat of the French Riviera9
15June 10Astrologie Apologia St. Tropezhitched along coast: l'cote d'azureSt. Tropez: stayed with Cyrille Briancon aunt Anne Marie Frysstepping onto a soft beach where sunbathers toasted10
16June 11not doingSt. TropezAnne Marie gave me roses to place at the foot of the statue#7 Rue du Four. cast her horoscope via interpreternarrow alley streets11
17June 12sacred v. eroticNice of the Virgin Mary of the RosesNiceview of Monte Carlo from hillside railroad tracks12
18June 13Pascal's wagerGenova ⇒ Milano2 exGIs gave ride from GenoaMilano in motel under constructionbottle of cheap wine... dizziness.13
19June 14Fellini's CasanovaVeneziaSt. Marks with TintorettosVeneziacanals... pigeons14
20June 15immortality... artists as missionaries and witnessesPadova ⇒ MonselicUniversity of Paduasouth of Padova in Monselicpretty coeds grinning at me while sliding thru cafeteria line because they could...power of youth15
21June 16bummer in BolognaFirenzefined in Bologna for hitching after 8 to 10 hours on hiway Firenzesteep hills and roads with cars honking horns while spiraling up them16
22June 17erotic v sacred tombsFirenze ⇒ Siena ⇒ Hiway 6Uffizi and David statuepast Siena on hiway 6running thru Uffizi before it closed17
23June 18flat v deep spaceRomaTuscany & Umbria landscapesRomadowntown waiting for bus in heat18
24June 19idolatryRoma ⇒ BrindisiSistine Chapel at 8 am openingtrain to Brindisirunning thru the Sistine Chapel to lay on bench and view the ceiling before the crowd arrived19
25June 20stages of religionBrindisi ⇒ Patrai ⇒ Athinaiferry to Greece and bus to AthensAthinai in Hostelheat in hostel... viewing up to the Parthenon20
26June 21theology in architectureAthinai ⇒ Mikonos ⇒climbed the Acropolis hillside to the Parthenon the hard wayboat to Mikonos named Mimikal then larger boat to Patmossmall boat then ferry boat to Patmos21
27June 22visions: sacred & profanePatmosexplored southward along coastline of PatmosPatmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pelletsSwedish couple nude in a tide pool... Greek sailor's hand gestures22
28June 23boredom v. idyllicPatmosexplored 1000 year old MonasteryPatmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pelletswhite stucco walls of monastery on hill top23
29June 24purpose transcendence mysticism witnessingPatmosfisherman & conch shellPatmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pelletsboredom... fisherman tries to sell me a conch shell24
30June 25sensory exhaustion v cultural deprivationPatmoswrote Mom a letter while sitting on a rock overlooking the seaPatmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pelletsmore boredom25
31June 26islands & polytheismPatmos ⇒ Mikonos ⇒ Athinaiboating back to Athensboat to Athensescape from Patmos26
32June 27cultural decay & racial purityAthinaia gallery of modern greek art - not so greatAthens in hosteltired of hitching, called Jo Blitch, my travel agent in Nashville, for a Eurail pass... 27
33June 28kingdoms & catholicismAthinai ⇒ Larisa, Macedonia ⇒ train ride thru northern Greecetrain to YugoslaviaGreek mountains of old Macedonia28
34June 29work v. jobs ⇒ Gevgelija, Yugoslavia ⇒ Skopje ⇒ Nis ⇒ Beograd ⇒ Zagreb ⇒Maribor ⇒ Graz ⇒ Wienentered Yugoslavia: standing room only with the hungry hoardsslept in mail car on mailbagstorture of standing mile after endless mile... man plowing field with mule29
35June 30purity & kinky ⇒ Beograd ⇒ Zagreb ⇒Maribor ⇒ Spielfeld-Straa, Austria ⇒ Graz ⇒ Wienentered AustriaWien in a hostel walkup 3 or 4 flightsbaroque style of architecture in hostel30
36July 1beauty v. lustWien ⇒ Melk ⇒ Amstetten ⇒ Salzburg ⇒ Munchen ⇒Klimts in Vienna galleries... Vienna woodsslept on train to Germanypicked up Eurail pass in Vienna... officially began on July 21
37July 2new art v. old artMunchen ⇒ Buchloe ⇒ St. Margrethen, Switz ⇒ Zurich ⇒ BernMunchen searched for Klimtsslept on floor at Bern, Switzerland train station with other travelerstrains stopped running at 2 am... Swiss obsession with cleanliness on station floor2
38July 3heaven & the ineffableBern ⇒ Lausanne ⇒ Geneva ⇒ Sion ⇒ Brig ⇒ Spiez ⇒ LenkGeneva, train and bus ride through SwitzerlandLenk in a Swiss valley... slept in a pasture of grass with view of mountainsmountain cabins with expensive cars3
39July 4rich & poor & mountainsLenk ⇒ Spiez ⇒ Brig ⇒ Interlaken ⇒ Luzern ⇒ Andermatt ⇒ Locarno ⇒ Dormodossola ⇒ Brigdown Alps to Domodossola, Italy and back upto Brig, SwitzerlandDisneyland mountain train... the little train that could and did4
40July 5limits of paradiseBrig ⇒ Andermott ⇒ St. Moritz ⇒ Davos ⇒ Buchs ⇒ Innsbruck ⇒ Salzburg ⇒St. Moritz, toured Switzerlandslept on train to Viennaman opened trapdoor and climbed out of shelter buried in snow... walked along mountain ridge5
41July 6liquidity of paintWien ⇒returned to view Klimts againslept on train thru GermanyVienna woods with evenly spaced trees6
42July 7castles v. cathedrals :: dark v. lightWien ⇒ Frankfurt ⇒ Bonn ⇒ Koln ⇒ Emmerich ⇒Rhine boat ride Frankfurt to Cologne cathedral entered Netherlands. Slept on train...boat ride up the Rhine7
43July 8Rembrandt v. Van Gogh v. Vermeer compared ⇒ Utrecht ⇒ Amsterdam ⇒ The Hague ⇒ Delft ⇒ Rotterdam ⇒ EssenRembrandt's Nigth Watch, Vermeers, Van Gogh GalleryEssen hostel?somewhere met a man who owned film company and he offered me a job as animator. 8
44July 9suits & uniformsEssen ⇒ Antwerpen ⇒ Bruxelles ⇒ Leuven ⇒ Liege ⇒ Clervaux visited film studio in Brussels... interviewed for job with no suit on... no no...Clervaux campgroundvisited his son in Brussels at company. After viewing my clothes, he was not interested in my talents.9
45July 10Ms. E's Floporium & random connectionsClervaux ⇒ MarburgSteffi's house... Ms. E's house...Marburg: stayed with Tom Fox's friend Steffi Newellwaking up to the morning sunlight on Steffi's shoulder 10
46July 11Heidegger critiqueMarburgloitered at university355 Marburg, Kleine Ortenberggasse 3University of Marburg lawn11
47July 12narcissism :: sexual attraction :: personal & collective guiltMarburgSteffi shows me Jewish graveyard and asks forgiveness355 Marburg, Kleine Ortenberggasse 3walking down a path with Steffi came upon a Jewish holocaust marker12
48July 13fairy tales, pastries, gluttonyMarburg ⇒ Gottingen ⇒ Hanover ⇒ Bremen ⇒ Hamburg ⇒ Lubeck ⇒Hanover, Bremen, Hamburgslept on train to Denmarkceiling of beams in Copenhagen train station13
49July 14viking descendants ⇒ Puttgarden ⇒ Rodb-Faerge ⇒ Kobenhavn ⇒ Stockholm ⇒entered Denmark: visited little mermaid statue. onto Stockholmslept on train thru Swedenlittle mermaid.. Stockholm from a distance14
50July 15GOD qua metaphor ⇒ Vannas ⇒ Bastutrask ⇒ Narvik, Norwaynorthern Sweden: large mosquitoes in woodsNarvik, Norway: tried sleeping in caboose in train yard, but sun never setcould not sleep in the caboose because of midnite sun... chilly in sleeping bag15
51July 16nudes & fjordsNarvik ⇒ Fauske bus to Fauske... the fjords! Sent postcard to Jim B.Fauske, Norwayfjords16
52July 17Vikings became Christians...Why?Trondheim ⇒ Oslo ⇒Trondheimtrain thru Norway. No night or daymore fjords17
53July 18Munch gloom v. Vigeland joy :: art & angst of civilization ⇒ Oslo ⇒ Goteborg ⇒Oslo. Looked for Munch paintings. They were in the streets.slept thru Swedenin Oslo, people walked around like zombies in a Munch painting: morose and depressed18
54July 19brief encounters :: lasting guilt & shallow feelingsHelsingor ⇒ Kopenhavn ⇒ Hamburg ⇒ Bremen ⇒ Goteborg, entered Denmark, Copenhagenslept thru Bremen, Dusseldorf, France to Parisyoung lady wanted me for a traveling companion... I declined19
55July 20lefties :: minorities & majorities ⇒ Dusseldorf ⇒ Koln ⇒ Liege ⇒ Parisvisited Kate... she would not let me stay... looked up Cyrille's gay brotherParis with Maxime & Chris in Montmarte. revisited Kate T. said goodbyes on her stairway...20
56July 21Picasso critiqueParisrevisited museums and galleriesParis with Maxime & Chris in Montmarte. Max & Chris escorted me thru Paris at night... fed me couscous in Algerian café21
57July 22religious wars along the wayParis ⇒ Limoges ⇒ Toulous ⇒ Spain ⇒south to Spainon train to Spainrhythm of the tracks... clip-clop clip-clop22
58July 23Gaudi revisited ⇒ Portbou ⇒ Barcelona ⇒ Villanueva y Geltruentered Spain at Portbou... onto Barcelonaslept in Villanueva y Geltru on beachin the morning, another look at Gaudi... office building. apartment building. cathedral.23
59July 24Pyrenees v. YosemiteVillanueva y Geltru ⇒ Barcelona ⇒ Puigcerda ⇒looked for Carson Beal at last known address... Pyrenees & YosemitePuigcerda at the Pyrenees on the border with FrancePyrenees remind me of Yosemite25
60July 25games & sports ⇒ Toulouse ⇒ Brive-la-Gaillarde retraced Tour de FranceBrive-la-GaillardeFrench pastries25
61July 26time & age ⇒ Niversac ⇒ Les Eyzies ⇒ Thenon ⇒ Bordeaux ⇒ La Rochelle cave paintings & BordeauxLa Rochellesent Ms. E postcard from Bordeaux26
62July 27GauguinNantes ⇒ Quimberon-St. Pierre Atlantic coast, Nantes, BrittanyQuimberon-St. Pierreno memory... another beach... another bay27
63July 28the vicarious NormanMont St. Michel ⇒ Pontor-SonMont St. Michel. Bus to door but too poor to enterPontor-Sonthe door... the monk... the sand 28
64July 29gluttony & punishmentOmaha Beach ⇒ Port-en-BessinOmaha Beach eating clams till tide rolled in slept on Omaha beach till tide rolled in. fishermen rescued me. slept in pillboxclams... water... fishermen... pillbox29
65July 30kitschBayeaux ⇒ Paris ⇒ LeCrotoy ⇒ back in Paris, musee of Gustav Moreau revisitedParis againvisited Normandy graveyards of Americans & Germans... Bayeaux tapestry30
66July 31bigus dickus ⇒ Boulogne ⇒ Calais ⇒ Dover ⇒ LondonBoulogne... entered Englandslept on way to Londoncrossing channel at night31
67August 1DaphneLondonLondon & Daphne FraenkelLondon: Daphne Fraenkel's small apartmentEurail pass ended when I entered England... Daphne's red hair & mauve scarf1
68August 2Tate & TurnerLondonTate GalleryLaura Richie's 75 year old French friendTurners in Tate2
69August 3medieval artLondonBritish MuseumLaura' brother first met Daphne at a concertmedieval relics in silver3
70August 4philosophy of scienceLondonScience MuseumDaphne printed vanity books for poetsantique scientific instruments in brass4
71August 5British landscape school :: nature tamed :: parks & re-creationLondonParks & Re-Creationpublished under Carrefour PressHyde Park grass... Kensington lawn5
72August 6Royal Ballet :: dance & learningLondonRoyal Balletonce friends with Henry Millertook Daphne to Royal Ballet6
73August 7Rocky Horror :: musician's lifeLondonRocky Horror Show musicalslept under her printing presstook Daphne to Rocky Horror musical... no lights7
74August 8Genet Flowers :: existentialism & dualityLondonJean Genet "Flowers" playfor 9 nightstook Daphne to Genet's Flowers8
75August 9country outing :: trivia in haute coutureLondonday in the country... Daphne gave me two suits with 28" waist... wore one to outinglast night before tour of Wales & Ireland & Scotlanddriving narrow country roads... met Amanda Hayes... 16 The Mall-East Sheen-London SW149
76August 10Alice :: porn & collegeLondon ⇒ Oxfordhitched northwest to Oxfordslept at Oxford UniversityOxford... brick walls with arched entrances10
77August 11capitalism & philanthropyOxford ⇒ Swansea hitched to SwanseaSwansea in Walesunpronounceable names of towns11
78August 12fighting future friendsSwansea ⇒ Cork ⇒ wandered & waited for ferry to Corkslept on ferry to Corkdark skinned Irish probably part Spanish & Moor12
79August 13openess ⇒ Cork ⇒ Macroomvisited the Blarney Stonenear Macroom & druid spirits of Munsterobserved the kissers but did not kiss13
80August 14everlasting lovingMacroom ⇒ Kenmare ⇒ Killarny ⇒ Tralee ⇒ Listowel ⇒ Kildysartnewlyweds in VW gave ride up the east coastKildysart on Shannon River near wreck of Matrishahoneymooners14
81August 15reincarnationKildysart ⇒ Ennis ⇒ Quin ⇒ Ennis ⇒ Corofin ⇒ Gort ⇒ north of Gortvisited pub in town of Quin... pubbers looked like my uncles... surprise!north of Gort around Coole Park with swansfaces of Quin pubbers15
82August 16belief & faithAthenry ⇒ Galway ⇒ Clifden ⇒ north of Leenaneadmiration of stone wall buildernorth of Leenane slept in barn of a deserted farmhouse... picked up licedeserted farmhouse16
83August 17poetry & rapWestport ⇒ Castlebar ⇒ Ballina ⇒ Easkey ⇒ Sligo ⇒ north of Ballyshannonvisited Yeats grave & little red school housenorth of Ballyshannon in a little red school houseredheads of Donegal county17
84August 18friendly v. unfriendlyDonegal ⇒ Derry ⇒ Dublinescape from Northern IrelandDublinfriendly family drove me to Derry...guns & barbed wire... postman drove me out of Northern Ireland18
85August 19temporal v. eternal familiesDublin ⇒ Liverpool ⇒Book of Kells at Trinity Church... looked up family crestsHarp Ferry to LiverpoolTrinity Church & Book of Kells... wrote mom letter and sent her Irish coins...19
86August 20illustrate v. touchLiverpool ⇒ Preston ⇒ M6 ⇒ Larkhall ⇒ Edinburgh ⇒ Dalkeithhitched from Liverpool to Glasgow to Edinburgh museumDalkeith: south of Edinburghmet Stephen J. Shorten from Ballylinan, Athy in Cokildare, Ireland on ferry. 20
87August 21marriages & wallsDalkeith ⇒ NewCastlehitching south to England... Hadrian's wallNewcastle: Amanda Hayes houseoutside the walls of row houses of factory workers... Amanda Hayes country suburban house21
88August 22drugsNewCastleNewcastle-on-TyneNewcastle: Amanda Hayes houselarge ice cream cone... Amanda and two friends left for London22
89August 23doing nothing :: stopping timeNewCastleday of rest aloneNewcastle: Amanda Hayes housebeing relaxed & alone... deep breathing23
90August 24hitchingNewCastle ⇒ Gatesheadhitched only a few miles south of NewcastleGateshead in a deserted oily grease factorymiserable rain & drizzle24
91August 25lending unwanted earGateshead ⇒ Durham ⇒ Sheffield ⇒ Nottingham ⇒ Leicester ⇒ Londontalked a family of 4 into giving me a ride to London down M1London: Daphne Fraenkel's small apartment againawkward feeling of being unwanted25
92August 26Hockney & Pre-Raphaelites :: 2 styles :: 2 attitudesLondonTate revisited... Pre-Raphaelites v. David HockneyCarrefour printing press underneathOphelia26
93August 27books & blogsLondonBritish Library searching for illuminated manuscriptsCarrefour printing press underneathantique books... illuminated manuscripts27
94August 28clocks & timeLondonGreenwich ObservatoryCarrefour printing press underneathstanding on the universal time line28
95August 29shopping & cheapnessLondonshopped at Piccadilly Circus: bought brown bathrobe, Russian dollsCarrefour printing press underneathpacking a box or trunk to be sent back with suits and other stuff... arrived a month later29
96August 30music & Mahler & romanticismLondonRoyal Albert Hall for NY PhilharmonicCarrefour printing press underneathclarinet player joking with college kids30
97August 31Daphne v. BrugesLondon ⇒ Dover ⇒ Bruges, Belgium ⇒train & ferry to BelgiumBruges, Belgiumno memory of Bruges... probably visited its tower31
98September 1wars & Flemish painters :: oils v. acrylics ⇒ Bruges ⇒ Brussels ⇒museum in Brussels... Flemish paintersBrusselsmoney exchange in Brussells... back to US dollars...1
99September 2retreat & PTSD ⇒ Brussels ⇒ Luxembourgtrain from Brussels to LuxembourgLuxembourg slept at airport climbing hill to airport... flying away... chasing the sun2
100September 3unique feelingsLuxembourg ⇒ Iceland ⇒ JFK ⇒ George Washington Bridge ⇒ Wilmington, DelawareIceland, JFK, George Washington Bridge by midnite and hitched thru the nightWilmington Bridge in Delaware on I-95surreal subway elevator... GWB toll booth... proposition... hitching in the Jersey dark3
101September 4drug highs & lowsWilmington ⇒ Greensboro, NCwoke at noon and hitched southGreensboro, NC: stayed with Jan and Jim againWilmington toll booth... houses under transmission towers4
102September 5divorceGreensbororested up in GreensboroGreensboro, NC: stayed with Jan and Jim and daughter JessicaJessica walking and crying behind me5
103September 6The Farm & utopiasGreensboro ⇒ west of Knoxvillehitched westI-75 & I-40 split west of Knoxville at exit 368standing at the I75 and I40 split6
104September 7Mom's houseHarriman ⇒ Nashvillereturn to Nashville 128 pounds with 28" waist2145 Byrum?visiting Mom and her plants7
105September 8what's a journal for?Nashvillesymphony begins season with Italian Street Fair2004 21st Ave S.returning to Ms. E's... Hello! I'm Back!8