THE 100 DAYS | ONE HUNDRED DAYS TOURING EUROPE | SUMMER OF 1975 | |||||
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LESSONS | CITIES | DAYS | NIGHTS | MEMORIES | |||
-2 | May 24 | past & future | Nashville ⇒ | likely left nashville on this day | slept on bus | full moon in DC | 24 |
-1 | May 25 | Falstaff & Cassius | Manhattan | do not know how I got to NYC... bus? | stayed at Jack Williams place in the lower east side | stuffed plane ticket in backpack frame | 25 |
0 | May 26 | museums | JFK International ⇒ Reykjavik, Iceland ⇒ | JFK airport in evening, Reykjavik, Iceland | slept on plane over Ireland to Luxembourg | Metropolitan Museum, maybe MOMA and Guggenheim | 26 |
1 | May 27 | culture shock | ⇒ Luxembourg ⇒ Paris | landed in morning in Luxembourg... train to France | Paris: Kate T. & her two apartment mates | misty in Luxembourg... walked down hill to train. | 27 |
2 | May 28 | cultural bumpkin | Paris | Paris | 6 Place Denfert-Rochereau | culture shock shopping awkwardly in a French outdoor market. | 28 |
3 | May 29 | museums & eternity | Paris | Louvre, subways, street markets | 6 Place Denfert-Rochereau | Louvre sans pyramid. | 29 |
4 | May 30 | impressions of impressionists | Paris | Montmartre Moreau Tower | 6 Place Denfert-Rochereau | Montmartre & Moreau paintings... Eiffel Tower | 30 |
5 | May 31 | history is where we are | Paris | Place Denfert-Rochereau | 6 Place Denfert-Rochereau | Lion of Belfort | 31 |
6 | June 1 | light & worship & awe | Paris ⇒ Versailles ⇒ Chartres ⇒ Tours | Versailles, Chartres, ride to Tours from Catherine Boyer | Catherine Boyer & Marie-Helene Robert, 3 Allee le Titie, Tours | ride between Versailles and Chartres from fellow who spoke English | 1 |
7 | June 2 | hiways & maps | Bordeaux ⇒ San Sebastian, Spain ⇒ Vitoria | Portuguese medical student drove me to Lisbon down hiway 3 | Vitoria Spain | little car. probably a Fiat? backed off road. pushed it back out of ditch. | 2 |
8 | June 3 | hiways & help | Spain ⇒ Lisboa | entered Portugal | Lisboa camp site | camp ground hard, but flat.. no grass. | 3 |
9 | June 4 | Jesus & night train | Portugal ⇒ Valencia de Alcantara, Spain | wrote card to Mouse... took train to Spain | Valencia de Alcantara: woke up in a cow pasture- moo | pulled the emergency cord to stop at border. conductor complained. | 4 |
10 | June 5 | every place has history & war | Caceras | fellow in red sportscar convertible drove me to Caceres | Caceras: slept in train station? | driver said he would take me to Madrid. Hah! never seen again | 5 |
11 | June 6 | fear & Heidegger's big blob of Being | Madrid | 12 hours in sun standing next to a girl's school- no ride | Madrid in a little room in someone's apartment | gave up and took train to Madrid | 6 |
12 | June 7 | old new spaces & cultural absolutes | Madrid ⇒ Zaragoza ⇒ Barcelona | Prado, Bosch paintings | slept on train to Barcelona | passengers tried to teach me Spanish quickly | 7 |
13 | June 8 | Gaudi & AWE | Barcelona ⇒ Perpignan, France ⇒ Narbonne ⇒ Arles ⇒ Marseille | Barcelona, Gaudi Park Guelle, Cathedral, VU students | slept on train to France | coincidentally met VU students in a café | 8 |
14 | June 9 | Mediterranean heat - vagabond v. rich | Marseille ⇒ Hyeres | train to Marseille | hitched from Marseille to Hyeres | heat of the French Riviera | 9 |
15 | June 10 | Astrologie Apologia | St. Tropez | hitched along coast: l'cote d'azure | St. Tropez: stayed with Cyrille Briancon aunt Anne Marie Frys | stepping onto a soft beach where sunbathers toasted | 10 |
16 | June 11 | not doing | St. Tropez | Anne Marie gave me roses to place at the foot of the statue | #7 Rue du Four. cast her horoscope via interpreter | narrow alley streets | 11 |
17 | June 12 | sacred v. erotic | Nice | of the Virgin Mary of the Roses | Nice | view of Monte Carlo from hillside railroad tracks | 12 |
18 | June 13 | Pascal's wager | Genova ⇒ Milano | 2 exGIs gave ride from Genoa | Milano in motel under construction | bottle of cheap wine... dizziness. | 13 |
19 | June 14 | Fellini's Casanova | Venezia | St. Marks with Tintorettos | Venezia | canals... pigeons | 14 |
20 | June 15 | immortality... artists as missionaries and witnesses | Padova ⇒ Monselic | University of Padua | south of Padova in Monselic | pretty coeds grinning at me while sliding thru cafeteria line because they could...power of youth | 15 |
21 | June 16 | bummer in Bologna | Firenze | fined in Bologna for hitching after 8 to 10 hours on hiway | Firenze | steep hills and roads with cars honking horns while spiraling up them | 16 |
22 | June 17 | erotic v sacred tombs | Firenze ⇒ Siena ⇒ Hiway 6 | Uffizi and David statue | past Siena on hiway 6 | running thru Uffizi before it closed | 17 |
23 | June 18 | flat v deep space | Roma | Tuscany & Umbria landscapes | Roma | downtown waiting for bus in heat | 18 |
24 | June 19 | idolatry | Roma ⇒ Brindisi | Sistine Chapel at 8 am opening | train to Brindisi | running thru the Sistine Chapel to lay on bench and view the ceiling before the crowd arrived | 19 |
25 | June 20 | stages of religion | Brindisi ⇒ Patrai ⇒ Athinai | ferry to Greece and bus to Athens | Athinai in Hostel | heat in hostel... viewing up to the Parthenon | 20 |
26 | June 21 | theology in architecture | Athinai ⇒ Mikonos ⇒ | climbed the Acropolis hillside to the Parthenon the hard way | boat to Mikonos named Mimikal then larger boat to Patmos | small boat then ferry boat to Patmos | 21 |
27 | June 22 | visions: sacred & profane | Patmos | explored southward along coastline of Patmos | Patmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pellets | Swedish couple nude in a tide pool... Greek sailor's hand gestures | 22 |
28 | June 23 | boredom v. idyllic | Patmos | explored 1000 year old Monastery | Patmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pellets | white stucco walls of monastery on hill top | 23 |
29 | June 24 | purpose transcendence mysticism witnessing | Patmos | fisherman & conch shell | Patmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pellets | boredom... fisherman tries to sell me a conch shell | 24 |
30 | June 25 | sensory exhaustion v cultural deprivation | Patmos | wrote Mom a letter while sitting on a rock overlooking the sea | Patmos: slept in a cave in a rock on goat pellets | more boredom | 25 |
31 | June 26 | islands & polytheism | Patmos ⇒ Mikonos ⇒ Athinai | boating back to Athens | boat to Athens | escape from Patmos | 26 |
32 | June 27 | cultural decay & racial purity | Athinai | a gallery of modern greek art - not so great | Athens in hostel | tired of hitching, called Jo Blitch, my travel agent in Nashville, for a Eurail pass... | 27 |
33 | June 28 | kingdoms & catholicism | Athinai ⇒ Larisa, Macedonia ⇒ | train ride thru northern Greece | train to Yugoslavia | Greek mountains of old Macedonia | 28 |
34 | June 29 | work v. jobs | ⇒ Gevgelija, Yugoslavia ⇒ Skopje ⇒ Nis ⇒ Beograd ⇒ Zagreb ⇒Maribor ⇒ Graz ⇒ Wien | entered Yugoslavia: standing room only with the hungry hoards | slept in mail car on mailbags | torture of standing mile after endless mile... man plowing field with mule | 29 |
35 | June 30 | purity & kinky | ⇒ Beograd ⇒ Zagreb ⇒Maribor ⇒ Spielfeld-Straa, Austria ⇒ Graz ⇒ Wien | entered Austria | Wien in a hostel walkup 3 or 4 flights | baroque style of architecture in hostel | 30 |
36 | July 1 | beauty v. lust | Wien ⇒ Melk ⇒ Amstetten ⇒ Salzburg ⇒ Munchen ⇒ | Klimts in Vienna galleries... Vienna woods | slept on train to Germany | picked up Eurail pass in Vienna... officially began on July 2 | 1 |
37 | July 2 | new art v. old art | Munchen ⇒ Buchloe ⇒ St. Margrethen, Switz ⇒ Zurich ⇒ Bern | Munchen searched for Klimts | slept on floor at Bern, Switzerland train station with other travelers | trains stopped running at 2 am... Swiss obsession with cleanliness on station floor | 2 |
38 | July 3 | heaven & the ineffable | Bern ⇒ Lausanne ⇒ Geneva ⇒ Sion ⇒ Brig ⇒ Spiez ⇒ Lenk | Geneva, train and bus ride through Switzerland | Lenk in a Swiss valley... slept in a pasture of grass with view of mountains | mountain cabins with expensive cars | 3 |
39 | July 4 | rich & poor & mountains | Lenk ⇒ Spiez ⇒ Brig ⇒ Interlaken ⇒ Luzern ⇒ Andermatt ⇒ Locarno ⇒ Dormodossola ⇒ Brig | down Alps to Domodossola, Italy and back up | to Brig, Switzerland | Disneyland mountain train... the little train that could and did | 4 |
40 | July 5 | limits of paradise | Brig ⇒ Andermott ⇒ St. Moritz ⇒ Davos ⇒ Buchs ⇒ Innsbruck ⇒ Salzburg ⇒ | St. Moritz, toured Switzerland | slept on train to Vienna | man opened trapdoor and climbed out of shelter buried in snow... walked along mountain ridge | 5 |
41 | July 6 | liquidity of paint | Wien ⇒ | returned to view Klimts again | slept on train thru Germany | Vienna woods with evenly spaced trees | 6 |
42 | July 7 | castles v. cathedrals :: dark v. light | Wien ⇒ Frankfurt ⇒ Bonn ⇒ Koln ⇒ Emmerich ⇒ | Rhine boat ride Frankfurt to Cologne cathedral | entered Netherlands. Slept on train... | boat ride up the Rhine | 7 |
43 | July 8 | Rembrandt v. Van Gogh v. Vermeer compared | ⇒ Utrecht ⇒ Amsterdam ⇒ The Hague ⇒ Delft ⇒ Rotterdam ⇒ Essen | Rembrandt's Nigth Watch, Vermeers, Van Gogh Gallery | Essen hostel? | somewhere met a man who owned film company and he offered me a job as animator. | 8 |
44 | July 9 | suits & uniforms | Essen ⇒ Antwerpen ⇒ Bruxelles ⇒ Leuven ⇒ Liege ⇒ Clervaux | visited film studio in Brussels... interviewed for job with no suit on... no no... | Clervaux campground | visited his son in Brussels at company. After viewing my clothes, he was not interested in my talents. | 9 |
45 | July 10 | Ms. E's Floporium & random connections | Clervaux ⇒ Marburg | Steffi's house... Ms. E's house... | Marburg: stayed with Tom Fox's friend Steffi Newell | waking up to the morning sunlight on Steffi's shoulder | 10 |
46 | July 11 | Heidegger critique | Marburg | loitered at university | 355 Marburg, Kleine Ortenberggasse 3 | University of Marburg lawn | 11 |
47 | July 12 | narcissism :: sexual attraction :: personal & collective guilt | Marburg | Steffi shows me Jewish graveyard and asks forgiveness | 355 Marburg, Kleine Ortenberggasse 3 | walking down a path with Steffi came upon a Jewish holocaust marker | 12 |
48 | July 13 | fairy tales, pastries, gluttony | Marburg ⇒ Gottingen ⇒ Hanover ⇒ Bremen ⇒ Hamburg ⇒ Lubeck ⇒ | Hanover, Bremen, Hamburg | slept on train to Denmark | ceiling of beams in Copenhagen train station | 13 |
49 | July 14 | viking descendants | ⇒ Puttgarden ⇒ Rodb-Faerge ⇒ Kobenhavn ⇒ Stockholm ⇒ | entered Denmark: visited little mermaid statue. onto Stockholm | slept on train thru Sweden | little mermaid.. Stockholm from a distance | 14 |
50 | July 15 | GOD qua metaphor | ⇒ Vannas ⇒ Bastutrask ⇒ Narvik, Norway | northern Sweden: large mosquitoes in woods | Narvik, Norway: tried sleeping in caboose in train yard, but sun never set | could not sleep in the caboose because of midnite sun... chilly in sleeping bag | 15 |
51 | July 16 | nudes & fjords | Narvik ⇒ Fauske | bus to Fauske... the fjords! Sent postcard to Jim B. | Fauske, Norway | fjords | 16 |
52 | July 17 | Vikings became Christians...Why? | Trondheim ⇒ Oslo ⇒ | Trondheim | train thru Norway. No night or day | more fjords | 17 |
53 | July 18 | Munch gloom v. Vigeland joy :: art & angst of civilization | ⇒ Oslo ⇒ Goteborg ⇒ | Oslo. Looked for Munch paintings. They were in the streets. | slept thru Sweden | in Oslo, people walked around like zombies in a Munch painting: morose and depressed | 18 |
54 | July 19 | brief encounters :: lasting guilt & shallow feelings | Helsingor ⇒ Kopenhavn ⇒ Hamburg ⇒ Bremen ⇒ | Goteborg, entered Denmark, Copenhagen | slept thru Bremen, Dusseldorf, France to Paris | young lady wanted me for a traveling companion... I declined | 19 |
55 | July 20 | lefties :: minorities & majorities | ⇒ Dusseldorf ⇒ Koln ⇒ Liege ⇒ Paris | visited Kate... she would not let me stay... looked up Cyrille's gay brother | Paris with Maxime & Chris in Montmarte. | revisited Kate T. said goodbyes on her stairway... | 20 |
56 | July 21 | Picasso critique | Paris | revisited museums and galleries | Paris with Maxime & Chris in Montmarte. | Max & Chris escorted me thru Paris at night... fed me couscous in Algerian café | 21 |
57 | July 22 | religious wars along the way | Paris ⇒ Limoges ⇒ Toulous ⇒ Spain ⇒ | south to Spain | on train to Spain | rhythm of the tracks... clip-clop clip-clop | 22 |
58 | July 23 | Gaudi revisited | ⇒ Portbou ⇒ Barcelona ⇒ Villanueva y Geltru | entered Spain at Portbou... onto Barcelona | slept in Villanueva y Geltru on beach | in the morning, another look at Gaudi... office building. apartment building. cathedral. | 23 |
59 | July 24 | Pyrenees v. Yosemite | Villanueva y Geltru ⇒ Barcelona ⇒ Puigcerda ⇒ | looked for Carson Beal at last known address... Pyrenees & Yosemite | Puigcerda at the Pyrenees on the border with France | Pyrenees remind me of Yosemite | 25 |
60 | July 25 | games & sports | ⇒ Toulouse ⇒ Brive-la-Gaillarde | retraced Tour de France | Brive-la-Gaillarde | French pastries | 25 |
61 | July 26 | time & age | ⇒ Niversac ⇒ Les Eyzies ⇒ Thenon ⇒ Bordeaux ⇒ La Rochelle | cave paintings & Bordeaux | La Rochelle | sent Ms. E postcard from Bordeaux | 26 |
62 | July 27 | Gauguin | Nantes ⇒ Quimberon-St. Pierre | Atlantic coast, Nantes, Brittany | Quimberon-St. Pierre | no memory... another beach... another bay | 27 |
63 | July 28 | the vicarious Norman | Mont St. Michel ⇒ Pontor-Son | Mont St. Michel. Bus to door but too poor to enter | Pontor-Son | the door... the monk... the sand | 28 |
64 | July 29 | gluttony & punishment | Omaha Beach ⇒ Port-en-Bessin | Omaha Beach eating clams till tide rolled in | slept on Omaha beach till tide rolled in. fishermen rescued me. slept in pillbox | clams... water... fishermen... pillbox | 29 |
65 | July 30 | kitsch | Bayeaux ⇒ Paris ⇒ LeCrotoy ⇒ | back in Paris, musee of Gustav Moreau revisited | Paris again | visited Normandy graveyards of Americans & Germans... Bayeaux tapestry | 30 |
66 | July 31 | bigus dickus | ⇒ Boulogne ⇒ Calais ⇒ Dover ⇒ London | Boulogne... entered England | slept on way to London | crossing channel at night | 31 |
67 | August 1 | Daphne | London | London & Daphne Fraenkel | London: Daphne Fraenkel's small apartment | Eurail pass ended when I entered England... Daphne's red hair & mauve scarf | 1 |
68 | August 2 | Tate & Turner | London | Tate Gallery | Laura Richie's 75 year old French friend | Turners in Tate | 2 |
69 | August 3 | medieval art | London | British Museum | Laura' brother first met Daphne at a concert | medieval relics in silver | 3 |
70 | August 4 | philosophy of science | London | Science Museum | Daphne printed vanity books for poets | antique scientific instruments in brass | 4 |
71 | August 5 | British landscape school :: nature tamed :: parks & re-creation | London | Parks & Re-Creation | published under Carrefour Press | Hyde Park grass... Kensington lawn | 5 |
72 | August 6 | Royal Ballet :: dance & learning | London | Royal Ballet | once friends with Henry Miller | took Daphne to Royal Ballet | 6 |
73 | August 7 | Rocky Horror :: musician's life | London | Rocky Horror Show musical | slept under her printing press | took Daphne to Rocky Horror musical... no lights | 7 |
74 | August 8 | Genet Flowers :: existentialism & duality | London | Jean Genet "Flowers" play | for 9 nights | took Daphne to Genet's Flowers | 8 |
75 | August 9 | country outing :: trivia in haute couture | London | day in the country... Daphne gave me two suits with 28" waist... wore one to outing | last night before tour of Wales & Ireland & Scotland | driving narrow country roads... met Amanda Hayes... 16 The Mall-East Sheen-London SW14 | 9 |
76 | August 10 | Alice :: porn & college | London ⇒ Oxford | hitched northwest to Oxford | slept at Oxford University | Oxford... brick walls with arched entrances | 10 |
77 | August 11 | capitalism & philanthropy | Oxford ⇒ Swansea | hitched to Swansea | Swansea in Wales | unpronounceable names of towns | 11 |
78 | August 12 | fighting future friends | Swansea ⇒ Cork ⇒ | wandered & waited for ferry to Cork | slept on ferry to Cork | dark skinned Irish probably part Spanish & Moor | 12 |
79 | August 13 | openess | ⇒ Cork ⇒ Macroom | visited the Blarney Stone | near Macroom & druid spirits of Munster | observed the kissers but did not kiss | 13 |
80 | August 14 | everlasting loving | Macroom ⇒ Kenmare ⇒ Killarny ⇒ Tralee ⇒ Listowel ⇒ Kildysart | newlyweds in VW gave ride up the east coast | Kildysart on Shannon River near wreck of Matrisha | honeymooners | 14 |
81 | August 15 | reincarnation | Kildysart ⇒ Ennis ⇒ Quin ⇒ Ennis ⇒ Corofin ⇒ Gort ⇒ north of Gort | visited pub in town of Quin... pubbers looked like my uncles... surprise! | north of Gort around Coole Park with swans | faces of Quin pubbers | 15 |
82 | August 16 | belief & faith | Athenry ⇒ Galway ⇒ Clifden ⇒ north of Leenane | admiration of stone wall builder | north of Leenane slept in barn of a deserted farmhouse... picked up lice | deserted farmhouse | 16 |
83 | August 17 | poetry & rap | Westport ⇒ Castlebar ⇒ Ballina ⇒ Easkey ⇒ Sligo ⇒ north of Ballyshannon | visited Yeats grave & little red school house | north of Ballyshannon in a little red school house | redheads of Donegal county | 17 |
84 | August 18 | friendly v. unfriendly | Donegal ⇒ Derry ⇒ Dublin | escape from Northern Ireland | Dublin | friendly family drove me to Derry...guns & barbed wire... postman drove me out of Northern Ireland | 18 |
85 | August 19 | temporal v. eternal families | Dublin ⇒ Liverpool ⇒ | Book of Kells at Trinity Church... looked up family crests | Harp Ferry to Liverpool | Trinity Church & Book of Kells... wrote mom letter and sent her Irish coins... | 19 |
86 | August 20 | illustrate v. touch | Liverpool ⇒ Preston ⇒ M6 ⇒ Larkhall ⇒ Edinburgh ⇒ Dalkeith | hitched from Liverpool to Glasgow to Edinburgh museum | Dalkeith: south of Edinburgh | met Stephen J. Shorten from Ballylinan, Athy in Cokildare, Ireland on ferry. | 20 |
87 | August 21 | marriages & walls | Dalkeith ⇒ NewCastle | hitching south to England... Hadrian's wall | Newcastle: Amanda Hayes house | outside the walls of row houses of factory workers... Amanda Hayes country suburban house | 21 |
88 | August 22 | drugs | NewCastle | Newcastle-on-Tyne | Newcastle: Amanda Hayes house | large ice cream cone... Amanda and two friends left for London | 22 |
89 | August 23 | doing nothing :: stopping time | NewCastle | day of rest alone | Newcastle: Amanda Hayes house | being relaxed & alone... deep breathing | 23 |
90 | August 24 | hitching | NewCastle ⇒ Gateshead | hitched only a few miles south of Newcastle | Gateshead in a deserted oily grease factory | miserable rain & drizzle | 24 |
91 | August 25 | lending unwanted ear | Gateshead ⇒ Durham ⇒ Sheffield ⇒ Nottingham ⇒ Leicester ⇒ London | talked a family of 4 into giving me a ride to London down M1 | London: Daphne Fraenkel's small apartment again | awkward feeling of being unwanted | 25 |
92 | August 26 | Hockney & Pre-Raphaelites :: 2 styles :: 2 attitudes | London | Tate revisited... Pre-Raphaelites v. David Hockney | Carrefour printing press underneath | Ophelia | 26 |
93 | August 27 | books & blogs | London | British Library searching for illuminated manuscripts | Carrefour printing press underneath | antique books... illuminated manuscripts | 27 |
94 | August 28 | clocks & time | London | Greenwich Observatory | Carrefour printing press underneath | standing on the universal time line | 28 |
95 | August 29 | shopping & cheapness | London | shopped at Piccadilly Circus: bought brown bathrobe, Russian dolls | Carrefour printing press underneath | packing a box or trunk to be sent back with suits and other stuff... arrived a month later | 29 |
96 | August 30 | music & Mahler & romanticism | London | Royal Albert Hall for NY Philharmonic | Carrefour printing press underneath | clarinet player joking with college kids | 30 |
97 | August 31 | Daphne v. Bruges | London ⇒ Dover ⇒ Bruges, Belgium ⇒ | train & ferry to Belgium | Bruges, Belgium | no memory of Bruges... probably visited its tower | 31 |
98 | September 1 | wars & Flemish painters :: oils v. acrylics | ⇒ Bruges ⇒ Brussels ⇒ | museum in Brussels... Flemish painters | Brussels | money exchange in Brussells... back to US dollars... | 1 |
99 | September 2 | retreat & PTSD | ⇒ Brussels ⇒ Luxembourg | train from Brussels to Luxembourg | Luxembourg slept at airport | climbing hill to airport... flying away... chasing the sun | 2 |
100 | September 3 | unique feelings | Luxembourg ⇒ Iceland ⇒ JFK ⇒ George Washington Bridge ⇒ Wilmington, Delaware | Iceland, JFK, George Washington Bridge by midnite and hitched thru the night | Wilmington Bridge in Delaware on I-95 | surreal subway elevator... GWB toll booth... proposition... hitching in the Jersey dark | 3 |
101 | September 4 | drug highs & lows | Wilmington ⇒ Greensboro, NC | woke at noon and hitched south | Greensboro, NC: stayed with Jan and Jim again | Wilmington toll booth... houses under transmission towers | 4 |
102 | September 5 | divorce | Greensboro | rested up in Greensboro | Greensboro, NC: stayed with Jan and Jim and daughter Jessica | Jessica walking and crying behind me | 5 |
103 | September 6 | The Farm & utopias | Greensboro ⇒ west of Knoxville | hitched west | I-75 & I-40 split west of Knoxville at exit 368 | standing at the I75 and I40 split | 6 |
104 | September 7 | Mom's house | Harriman ⇒ Nashville | return to Nashville 128 pounds with 28" waist | 2145 Byrum? | visiting Mom and her plants | 7 |
105 | September 8 | what's a journal for? | Nashville | symphony begins season with Italian Street Fair | 2004 21st Ave S. | returning to Ms. E's... Hello! I'm Back! | 8 |